Devil's Backbone Reef

The wrecks of Devil's Backbone

The Cienfuegos, a 292-foot American passenger steamship that sank in 1895, is the largest wreck on the reef. Local villagers rescued all passengers and crew, but the iron hull now lies scattered across the sandy bottom in 10 to 35 feet of water. Her bow, steam engine, and boiler remain identifiable landmarks.

The Train Wreck dates to 1865, when a barge carrying a steam locomotive and rail cars to Cuba foundered in a storm. Wheels, wheel trucks, boiler plates, and wooden beams lie in just 10 to 15 feet of water. Multiple other wrecks including the Carnarvon and Vanaheim add to the density of submerged history.

Marine life on the reef

The wrecks have become artificial reefs supporting abundant marine life. Spotted trunkfish, snapper, and angelfish inhabit the structures, while parrotfish graze on coral-encrusted metalwork. Anemones, conch, nudibranchs, shrimp, and crabs populate the nooks and crannies of the wreckage.

The shallow depths and excellent visibility, often 80 to 100 feet during the dry season from November to May, create ideal conditions for underwater photography. Snorkelers can observe much of the marine life and wreck features from the surface.

Planning your dive

Devil's Backbone is accessed from Harbour Island, Spanish Wells, or North Eleuthera. Local operators run regular trips to multiple wreck sites along the reef. The shallow depths make this suitable for all certification levels, including newly certified divers.

Most operators offer multi-site dives that visit several wrecks in a single excursion. The Train Wreck and Cienfuegos are popular highlights, but the entire reef system offers exploration opportunities. Calm conditions are typical in the protected waters behind the reef.

Centuries of Maritime Tragedy

The Devil's Backbone earned its fearsome name through centuries of shipwrecks that claimed vessels from the age of sail through the modern era. This shallow rocky reef extends along Eleuthera's northern coast, lurking just beneath the surface where wind, waves, and limited visibility conspired to drive ships onto the unforgiving coral. The earliest documented wreck, the William, carried the Eleutheran Adventurers from Bermuda when it struck the reef in 1648, stranding the colonists who would become the island's first European settlers.

The wrecks have accumulated in layers across the reef system. At some locations, vessels from different eras rest nearly atop one another, their debris fields intermingled by storms and time. This density of maritime history creates an underwater museum accessible to divers and snorkelers at depths as shallow as 5 feet and rarely exceeding 35 feet.

The Train Wreck and Cienfuegos

The Train Wreck dates to 1865, when a barge transporting a steam locomotive and rail cars to Cuba foundered in a violent storm. The locomotive and its cargo of railway equipment settled in just 15 feet of water, where train wheels, wheel trucks, boiler plates, and wooden beams remain visible and recognizable to this day. The shallow depth makes this wreck equally accessible to snorkelers and scuba divers, offering a surreal encounter with railroad equipment in a tropical marine setting.

The Cienfuegos represents the largest wreck on the reef, a 292-foot American passenger steamship that ran aground on February 5, 1895, during strong northwest winds. Local villagers rescued all passengers and crew, but the iron hull succumbed to wave action over the decades. Her bow, steam engine, and boiler remain identifiable at depths of 10 to 35 feet, now hosting colonies of angelfish, parrotfish, and conchs that have made the wreckage their home.

Additional Wrecks and Exploration

The Carnarvon, a 185-foot steel lighthouse service ship, sank in 1916 and rests in approximately 25 feet of water. Her steam engine, drive shaft, and boiler remain in remarkable condition for their age, providing excellent subjects for underwater photography. The Vanaheim, an 85-foot freighter lost during a 1969 storm, lies so close to the Cienfuegos that her rudder sits just 5 feet from the older wreck.

The USS Boston, an 18-gun American military sloop weighing 700 tons and measuring 127 feet, wrecked on the north side of the reef in November 1846. These multiple wrecks spanning four centuries allow divers to construct a timeline of maritime technology from wooden sailing vessels through iron steamships to modern steel freighters, all within recreational diving limits.

Marine Life and Diving Conditions

The wrecks have transformed into artificial reefs teeming with Caribbean marine life. Spotted trunkfish navigate the debris fields while snapper congregate in shaded areas beneath hull sections. Angelfish display their brilliant coloration against rusting metal, and parrotfish graze on algae growing over every surface. The substrate hosts anemones, conch, nudibranchs, shrimps, and crabs in the countless crevices created by collapsed structures.

Visibility reaches 80 to 100 feet during the dry season from November through May, when reduced rainfall creates optimal water clarity. The protected waters behind the reef provide calm conditions for diving even when the ocean side experiences significant swell. The shallow depths and minimal current make Devil's Backbone suitable for all certification levels, including recently certified Open Water divers and snorkelers.

Getting there

Devil's Backbone is reached from Harbour Island, Spanish Wells, or North Eleuthera. Dive operators including Valentine's Dive Center and Ocean Fox run regular trips to the reef. The protected location behind the reef allows diving in most conditions. Water taxi service connects Harbour Island to North Eleuthera for those staying on the main island.

Frequently asked questions

How many wrecks are at Devil's Backbone?

Dozens of vessels have wrecked on Devil's Backbone over centuries. The most accessible include the Cienfuegos (1895), Train Wreck (1865), Carnarvon (1916), and Vanaheim (1969). Some wrecks are stacked on top of each other.

Is Devil's Backbone good for snorkeling?

Yes, the shallow depths of 5-35 feet make this excellent for snorkeling. Much of the Train Wreck lies in just 10-15 feet, allowing snorkelers to observe the locomotive remains and marine life from the surface.

When is the best time to dive Devil's Backbone?

November through May offers the best visibility, often reaching 80-100 feet. The dry season brings calmer conditions and clearer water. Summer diving is possible but visibility may be reduced.

Which Devil's Backbone wreck is best for beginners?

The Train Wreck at 15 feet depth offers the most accessible experience for new divers and snorkelers. The shallow depth allows extended bottom time, the wreck features are clearly identifiable, and the calm conditions behind the reef provide a comfortable environment for building confidence.

Can I see multiple wrecks on one dive at Devil's Backbone?

Yes, the proximity of wrecks allows multi-site exploration on a single dive. The Cienfuegos and Vanaheim sit within 5 feet of each other, and operators commonly run routes connecting several wrecks. The shallow depths provide ample bottom time for extended exploration.

Are there sharks at Devil's Backbone?

Reef sharks are present year-round with increased sightings during winter months from January through February. However, Devil's Backbone is better known for its wreck concentration and invertebrate life than for shark encounters. Divers seeking sharks may find better odds at other Eleuthera sites.